The Top 100 List: #99 The Broker’s “Southwest Wellington”


The Broker’s “Southwest Wellington”

Location: Downtown

Rating: 5 (out of 10)

Price:  $41

The Skinny: High prices can often be a signal of many things – quality, good service, creativity, ambiance.  In the case of The Broker, a restaurant which is absent all of that – it is simply a slap in the face.  It’s an infuriating display of raping and pillaging the good people of Denver who are foolish enough to dine here.  Consider me one of them, forking over $41 before tax and tip to eat their remarkably average and uninspired “Southwest Wellington”.  And that was on the low end – an order of Rack of Lamb will run you a cool $57.

Really Broker?  Could you possibly be this tone deaf to the economic happenings outside of your little vault in an abandoned bank?

The appearance of upscale is attempted, at least.  Diners eat in an old bank vault, the huge steel door propped open for display.  In keeping with the theme are the tables, which are like private rooms with 3 sides.  Apparently this is where bank patrons sat with the contents of their lock boxes – counting their money, poring over documents, plotting takeovers, etc.  Upon sitting down, I was handed a menu with the words “personally yours” on the cover.  Gag.  After ordering the Wellington, a big basket of shrimp cocktail was delivered to the table – a Broker tradition no matter what you order.  It’s not my thing, but I had a few anyway.  The waitress told me they would throw them out even if I didn’t touch them, so I felt compelled, you know… to honor the killed shrimp.  Below average.  The same can be said of the other 2 courses that come with the dish (soup and dessert):  Below average.  It’s not a great value if you get 4 courses and 3 of them suck.

Finally the Wellington arrives.  I break into the puff pastry and find that the meat is chopped, not whole.  Disappointing.  The rest of the dish is fine.  Flavors were fine.  Green chili had a nice kick and the meat was decent, such as it was.  Nothing special, but nothing bad either.  Sides were average.  Not at all worth $41.  Not when you’ve got TAG, Twelve, and Panzano all within 5 minutes away, serving home runs for $26.  Skip.


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