Must Eat Denver

Seafood Landing’s “Uni (Fresh Sea Urchin)”

Location: Highlands

Rating: 1 (out of 10)

Price:  $9.50/lb

The Skinny: Yes, the Urchin was just about the worst thing I’ve tasted on the whole list.  Quite possibly the worst thing I’ve tasted in years, to be honest.  But I’m going to guess that this entry was on the list due to Bruce, the owner of Seafood landing.  Not a character in town quite like him..

You walk into Seafood Landing and something just seems a little bit… different.  You look up at their chalk board at “Specials of the Day” and see a Peace sign graphic.  Apparently they specialize in peace?  Once you meet Bruce, you get it.  Ponytail of gray hair, calloused hands, and a voice and demeanor that’s as gentle and pleasant as a light ocean breeze.  He was a former civil engineer who tired of the racket and decided to buy this seafood market from the elderly owner.  He confided in his slow, warm way, “it was either the best thing I ever did or the dumbest thing I ever did.”  In any case, the guy is clearly passionate about fish, and will go above and beyond for his customers.

After asking Bruce about the Uni (which he was thoroughly confused about), he suggested we special-order it.  I went with the flow.  In it came the next morning, all black and spiny, threatening as all hell – the physical opposite to Bruce.  He broke open a cookbook and instructed me on how best to prepare it.  You break the thing open and scoop out the roe on the insides – then toss it in hot pasta.  The heat of the pasta is supposed to be enough to cook the roe adequately.  I did as I was told – throwing the roe in with my penne, and dug in.  It was wretched.  Simply awful.  Like Ocean snot.  After one big bite, I had to throw the whole bowl away.

Even with this disappointment, I’ll probably go back – got to support guys like Bruce.

AGREE OR DISAGREE?