Must Eat Denver

Kevin Taylor’s “Foie Gras”

Location: Downtown

Rating: 8 (out of 10)

Price:  $16

The Skinny: I’ll tell you what – this dish was pretty goddamn delicious.  Not that anyone noticed.  I’ve been to Kevin Taylor a few times, and each time it was so dead I swear a tumbleweed passed through during dinner.  On this trip, there was literally one other table in the whole dining room.  What’s the deal?  Perhaps if they added some cliff diving – served their food factory –style… then they would really draw the crowds.

According to my nice-guy waiter, they change the menu fairly frequently, but always have a new fois gras creation.  It’s their thing.  One bite in, I can attest that their focus shows.  It was just very well thought out – very well designed.  The foie itself is rich and full of flavor.  It sits on a small, toasted brioche, which tasted a lot like French toast, and is surrounded by a port reduction and some almonds.  Since the foie gras is soft, the brioche and almonds give a great crunch and weight to the dish, and the port and sliced grapes provide a sweetness and acid to cut through the fat.  Everything balanced, everything executed well.  The only thing missing was the pleasant buzz of conversation throughout the room.  Maybe a selection of cheesecakes behind glass would do it?

AGREE OR DISAGREE?